by Jonas Loss

It's always a good idea to have new toys to fool around with. The new Schmoolz are a good example and a perfect edition for our climbing gym. We have a pair which our customers can rent for training at our boulder wall and to prepare for the next ice climbing season.

Even if there is no good place for ice climbing in our part of Germany, the Schmoolz provide a good reason for at least dreaming of the ultimate ice climbing adventure. Our climbing gym is located in Wetzlar near Frankfurt.

We are looking forward to testing these tools in practice with many customers. Watch for new Schmoolz videos on our facebook page: www.facebook.com/cubekletterzentrum

Well done to everyone who went to the first round of the Scottish Tooling Series at Glasgow. The event was hands down a great success. Many thanks to Neil Silver for the overall arranging, Pete Hill for his sick and perverse routes, all the staff at Glasgow Climbing Wall for their warm welcome, and all the competitors and climbers for their support.

The Schmoolz Crew put on taster and warm up sessions before the event and interest was great. Unfortunately, my performance in the main event wasn't so good. I popped off the very first route going along a wall onto the log traverse, fell five feet through the air and really hurt myself. From there on it was downhill. The motto of this little story is that the rock never lies but Chinese holds (Enterprise) most certainly do. They have got to be the most goddamn slippy holds on the market, kind of like polished stones. I discovered many competitors had filed small pointy hooks into the end of their picks specifically to get behind the holds and into the wall just to give them a good hook. Lesson learned! For the next round fingers crossed better holds and pointy hooks in the end of my picks for sure!

Every man needs a project, just some projects are more extreme than others...

We're always looking something different to do, something different to climb. Unfortunately we don’t have either the budget or the skill to undertake an "Asgard Project" but it’s always nice to dream.

So in our limited quest to chase some adventure we've started planning "The Marsden Project". Marsden Rock is a 100ft sea stack just south of the mouth of the Tyne. Several years ago, part of the stack was demolished with a control explosion because of its instability. High tide see's the stack submerged in 2 meters of good old northern sea. In the past, there were stairs cut into the rock but these have long been lost as the stack slowly succumbs to the effects of the sea.

There seems to be limited records of any assents of the stack (I don’t doubt that it must have been climbed) although Marsden is renowned as an excellent dry tooling venue (within the cove). Our plan is to recce the stack, with a possible trad assent, before attempting to dry tool any routes that will give. Michael Daglish has agreed to join the madness so hopefully we'll have some good footage to put up after.

Tomorrow evening (Friday 8th of October) we're going to check out any possible routes with a view to a quick trad assent, so check back soon to see the progress.

We just received a new batch of tools to add to our stock.

Taster sessions will be put on this weekend both at Glasgow Climbing Wall (as part of the STS) and at Plas y Brenin (as part of the BMC Student Workshops).

Remember, registered competitors at the STS are eligible to a 17% discount on the RRP.

The Schmoolz team have got together with the guys from the Scottish Tooling Series and are now offering all STS Competitors a 17% discount on a pair of Schmoolz D10's. This offer is only available to competitors - you must be registered to claim your discount code. We want everyone to have the same chance at winning as... us!

When you register for the competition you will receive a discount code, simply use this code to claim your discount and buy a pair from us for only £50!!

by James Cooper

I picked up a set of Schmoolz in an effort to mix up my training and build up some endurance for the coming winter. After testing them out for first time at my local wall with a friend, we instantly got the intense pump associated with hanging on axes and had great fun using them on different routes.

Both the handles and shafts are comfortable to grip and the belts get a good grip on big jugs, as well as smaller rounded ones. You will be kept on your toes as you get some unexpected falls as you pull on small holds you thought you had hooked.

Pros: Great way to vary and progress your training and get more out of your local wall

Cons: Won't turn you into Ueli Steck over night"

Malcolm Kent, a world class competition ice climber, often gets involved in worthy projects that help to promote the sport. In his online blog he announced the opening of the Banana Park - the first outdoor dry tooling wall of its kind, allowing climbers to Schmool, for free, all year round. That’s right - a wall dedicated to Schmooling.

Check out the full article here malcolmkent.co.uk/

This months AMI Magazine has a brief mention the Schmoolz D10.

Reproduced here with kind permission of Association of Mountain Instructors

by Sally Chisholm

Personally I have found the Schmoolz to be a great addition to my climbing routine, not only do they offer a whole new realm of fun to be had they work an entirely different set of muscles to traditional climbing hence taking your training to a whole new level! When I first used them I was actually amazed by how much fun could be had with such a small addition, there was nearly a civil war in the group of student climbers over who was using them next, they were definitely a big hit.

Never having been ice climbing myself I can’t compare this to the real thing, however now I would feel much more confident to try it out, I would guess the Schmoolz are a brilliant stepping stone from traditional climbing into ice climbing. The certainly do offer the opportunity to try before you buy, obviously ice climbing wouldn’t be for just anyone and it’s an expensive sport to get into it would be frustrating to then find it wasn’t for you. Schmoolz however are reasonably priced and can offer an insight into the world of ice climbing making sure you are making the correct decision for you.

One of the best things about Schmoolz is that they offer something new, it didn’t matter that I’d climbed that route a hundred times before at my local wall now I had something different to play with and it brought back that passion only created by something new. Schmoolz can totally relight a lost spark for climbing; using the same wall and the same routes it can be easy to get disheartened in the long winter months when outdoor climbing isn’t ideal but Schmooling increases what you can do at your climbing wall exponentially; leading to new ideas every time you use them “Can I do this with them?” “Can I stretch myself even further?” “Oh this could be a new idea!”

I would definitely recommend Schmoolz for climbers young and old, children will have great fun bouldering with these tools whilst adults can use them to improve their training and enable them to have more fun in the process.

Schmoolz are in one word AWESOME!

World championship ice climbing competitor and all round alpine mixed, adventurous ice and sport mixed climber, Malcolm Kent gives a quick heads up on his experiences of Schmooling.

When I took a look at the tools for the first time, I have to say that I was pretty sceptical. But I've been using them now for around 6 months and they have had a hell of a lot of use in that time.

I'm based in Denmark, where outdoor climbing opportunities are rather limited to say the least. Thanks to the Schmoolz I have been able to climb indoors at a bunch of bouldering walls, where climbing with regular tools would just be totally impossible.

Recently I have been able to form a partnership with the caretakers of Copenhagen's latest outdoor lead wall. This deal will allow people to use the Schmoolz, for fun non-destructive drytooling on a full size climbing wall.

Personally I think anything that opens up new climbing opportunities and methods of training has to be great, and the Schmoolz tools have done just that.

Malc (malcolmkent.co.uk)

Blackpool Towers Drytooling Event, 17-18-19 September 2010

Pete Hill from www.drytoolinguk.com has organised another great dry tooling event to be held at the fabulous Blackpool Towers outdoor' climbing wall. This is sure to be mucho fun. Starting on Friday evening this weekend there will be dry tooling workshops, taster sessions and a dry tooling competition on the Saturday. Pete's events are allways a great experience and I am sure this will not fail to deliver. The Blackpool Towers are certainly an outdoor climbing wall that really needs to be tried out!

The details are as follows:
September 17-18-19 Fri Evening: Workshop 19.00-21.00. Taster session all evening from 18.00. Saturday: Workshop 10.00-12.00. Competition 12.00-16.30 Sunday: Workshop 10.00-12.00. Taster session all day from 10.00.

Go to: Upcoming dry tooling events for further information and to book your place in the competition.

by Maggie Martin

Being female and naturally quite inquisitive....I was very intrigued when I first set eyes on someone using a set of Schmoolz at my local indoor climbing wall. I inched myself forward to ask a thousand and one questions to uncover what these new, exciting and strange contraptions were.

I initially felt quite reluctant to sample them when I was offered the opportunity to give them a go. On first impression I thought they looked complicated and would probably be difficult for me to use. But, as usual, my curiosity got the better of me, so after very little arm twisting and an audience of interested bystanders egging me on, I had my very first Schmooling experience. I absolutely loved it. I thought Schmooling was AWESOME and I was instantly hooked.

Then, as if the pleasurable Schmooling experience wasn't enough in itself, I found the Schmoolz were fantastic for building really good core strength. The next day I felt like I had done over a thousand sit up's. I felt muscle aches in muscles I didn't know existed. I found myself stalking the Schmooling guys at local walls, finding out where they would be just so I could have another go.

I knew a lot of people used the tools as an aid to train for winter climbing, but having no experience of winter climbing or dry tooling myself, I just thought they were really great fun. I would urge anyone to give these fantastic contraptions a go. They add a whole new, fun element to the wonderful world of climbing. But seriously don't just take my word for it - go on check them out for yourself...you know you want to :-)

Anyone who’s ever trained, run, rowed or climbed with my pal 'Mick Sadler' will know that keeping up with him is just half the battle – I have bad memories of a 4am walk (more like run) in in 3 foot of snow with only a head torch for company. Winter is now looming with the STS (scottish tooling series) less than a month away 'Mad Mick' has started a monster training program. In a vain effort to keep up with him, I’m also starting my dry tooling stamina training.

We are going to do some bi-weekly posts on our dry tooling training program which covers a wide range of activities – not just Schmooling. So if you’re interested in some different programs or approaches to general climbing related stamina training then check back soon.

In the mean time, a picture of my last session after 30 mins of constant traversing…

Congratulations to Mick on passing his MIA. Stay tuned – Mike Collins

It's around about this time of year I start thinking about ice, snow and the mountain glory that will be mine. No injuries will stop me and certainly not the weather. Long drives and early morning starts are the stuff of dreams and stearner men than me! Luckily I don't have to start getting out of bed to early just yet (I like to keep warm when I can and so does my girlfriend). This year will be different, this year I can start my preperations on a nice dry, warm (well not usually so warm) climbing wall and get serious with the Scottish Tooling Series. The organisers of this fine event have selected the five best Scottish climbing walls to battle:
09/10/2010 - The Glasgow Climbing centre.
23/10/2010 - Glenmore Lodge.
30/10/2010 - Transition Extreme.
13/11/2010 - Ice Factor.
27/11/2010 - Eica Ratho.

and are at this very moment in time fiendishly planning devious and dangerous challenges to test your metal and more specifically your climbing axes and biceps to their very limits - not to mention elbows and re-occuring tendonitis.

Five rounds and the final will be held to find this years Scottish tooling champions. The events are a great way to warm up for the coming winter ice climbing season in the UK or should I just say the Scottish Highlands because that is where all the excitement and fun will be waiting to be had after the requisite number of threeze thaw cycles have had their wicked way - sweet Jack Frost how I love thee.

Go to the Scottish Tooling Series website:
http://www.scottishtoolingseries.co.uk/
for news, registration and info about the specific rounds, times and locations.

Competitors can use their own ice axes, although the adze/hammer needs to be removed if possible or made safer with padding (yes this looks really stupid but so does a glass eye). Helmets and gloves must also be worn. Helmets with face guards are optional but eye protection is required (no comedy glasses please). Competitors are required to wear outdoor mountaineering boots although youth competitors are exempt at some walls and can wear shoes (NOT rock shoes) when possible. Crampons will be required at some of the competitions (Glenmore Lodge and The Ice Factor) but at Glenmore youth competitors can use boots or shoes instead. Monty Python eat your heart out!

All in all the idea is just to have a bit of fun and get warmed up for the coming winter season. We suggest you get a pair of Schmoolz D10's and start training whilst you still can at your local climbing wall (we are).

The Schmoolz guys are putting a 'Schmoolz Team' together. The dream team will be Big Mike (Mike Sadler), Mini Mike (Mike Collins) and big Singe (St.john Goldfinger) - so watch out here we come!

As we like to say 'the rock never lies and neither does gravity...'

We all hope to see you there and certainly in the bar afterwards for those who are old enough of course!

by Mike Sadler (ML, SPA, MIA) - North East England

I write to commend you on your indoor axes. I have been using a pair for about 12 months and have found them a great training aid for my winter climbing.

I started using them in the run up toward last winter and designed a training program around their use to compliment dry tool training with my outdoor axes and training in the gym. I was able to use the Schmoolz at a number of indoor walls (stirred a great deal of interest) traversing on bouldering walls, top roping routes and leading. I made great gains in my movement. I was able to significantly develop stamina in the areas where I needed it and make great leaps in technique.

Did it work? Were the skills developed indoors able to be transferred to the real stuff? Well… Yes. Over 30 routes done in the Lakes and Cairngorms over winter.

Previously time had been spent ‘easing’ into routes getting used to the feel of pulling on axes. This year started on grade IV’s and worked my up to grade VI’s. The confidence was there from the start. Without doubt the Schmoolz had played a large part in both the physical and mental preparation for winter climbing.

I feel that anyone interested in winter climbing should incorporate these in to their indoor sessions once the cold damp evenings are upon us and see the difference once outdoors.

Cheers Guys

After a long and eventful summer climbing pretty hard, the Schmoolz crew have picked up the axes once more in preparation for winter. We’ve had a good summer of trad climbing – some of us have been trying to push the grades, other have been waylaid with injuries (A2 pulley tendon tears). However, with the Scottish Tooling Series fast approaching and hopes of another excellent winter, we have started training now for the rock and snow.

Taking advantage of the last of the light evening, we headed of to a little known, and little used local quarry. The Quarry isn’t used much for climbing as the quality of rock is very poor, loose and dirty – but it makes the perfect tooling venue. It’s amazing how much skill you loose in such a little time - whilst trad climbing at a reasonable grade, it defiantly took a bit of time to get back into the flow of things. Tooling on rock like this is about as close to real winter climbing as you can get – delicate and temperamental. Having got a taste back for it, its time to hit the indoor walls and crack out the Schmoolz..

Mike

We have been working hard over the last couple of weeks to finish developing the new Schmoolz drytooling website. That day has finally arrived and here it is in all its glory! We hope you like it and that it provides you with information, news, cools pictures and other good stuff. We hope to cover drytooling, ice climbing and big mountains (small ones are also ok).

Development will continue and we hope to improve the form and function - any little mistakes just let us know and we will try to fix them!

The Schmoolz Crew.

Today the Schmoolz crew were pleased to help and support local youth climbing by organising and sponsoring an inter-college climbing competition. This was the final round of three other mini competitions, being held at SRC Bede 6th Form.

The day was split into a morning of workshops covering best practises, master classes, abseiling techniques, rescue work and of course dry tooling. The afternoon was dedicated to the actual competition where students had to bag as many routes as they could in an hour period. Routes ranged from 4c – 6c and points were awarded for successfull ascents. The best college was decided through a series of tasks based on the morning workshops.

I great day was had by all, students climbed safely and hard. We were please to help support and promote climbing in our local community - everybody was a winner.

The Schmoolz Crew were invited up to the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena by Nick the wall manager. The Schmoolz D10 drytools were well received by all that day. Often we have to encourage the 'normally' shy climbers to come and have ago...However, at EICA the climbers came in a steady stream throughout the day. As usual we had a cross section of people having a go from PT staff to Junior British Climbing Team members.

The wall at EICA is excellent for drytooling with the Schmoolz and because of its size, its great for stamina training and getting an excellent workout.

Thanks to all for an absolutely awesome day out - the EICA wall rocks for schmoolz drytooling.

The Schmoolz ice tool and drytooling guys delivered some Schmoolz tools to John at the great 'RockAntics' climbing wall Newton Aycliffe. RockAntics is cool to Schmool. Schmoolers can use the boulder wall, top rope and lead. John has Schmoolz for sale and also available for hire so if you want to try them out and you are in that area just go down and ask to check them out! Drytooling is mucho fun at RockAntics.

The Schmoolz boys are heading to Llanberis, North Wales this weekend. If anyone is heading that way you can find us in the trade tent. It would be great if you popped in and said HI! The link below will give you all the details of the events/films you can attend.

On the spur of the moment, hearing about Kenton Cool's lecture at the Royal Grammar School in Newcastle, the Schmoolz Crew (St.john, Michael and Cliff) decided to put in an attendance and thus getting out of making the tea back at home. Kenton Cool is renowned as one of Britain's top alpinist and Himalayan guides having been to the top of Everest on seven occasions now. The lecture itself was mainly about his professional working relationship and involvement with Sir Ranulph Feinnes. Apart from discussing Ran's (as Kenton called him) foibles Kenton went into the type of character that has seen Sir Ranulph establish himself as Britain's greatest living explorer. A few beers after (ok it was one because I was driving) finished the night off .

It was with great pleasure that the Schmoolz drytooling team (St.john, Mike and Cliff) took a little journey over to the Kendal wall to hand over 10 sets of Schmoolz to Pete Hill who was running a dry tooling event based from the wall. Pete is well known amongst the mountaineering instructor fraternity, having written numerous books on the subject and a holder of the MIC (Mountaineering Instructor Certificate). Pete's other work includes the running and organising of indoor dry tooling competitions and has the following business: http://www.drytoolinguk.com/. The ice tools immediately went down well and with them hardly out of their bags the Wall staff were onto them....Mark (Manager) was really impressed with them, even though he had a few 'pops' off. The Schmoolz drytooling axes are available by contacting me (until the website is up and going) then direct through the internet. Happy Schmooling :-)